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Date |
Question |
Answer |
15/06/03 |
Brian Forster (who had the idea for this page) from Tasmania asks "has anyone had experience with
injectors? I have obtained a "Metropolitan" model 3N injector that has
3/8" fittings. The only problem is I am unable to identify the water in,
steam in and water out fittings." "I have had
many years experience working with injectors [In the railway world on
loco's] but have never actually set one up. I hope someone in the
membership can help." |
Peter Cowie from Sydney provides this
answer: In the 1998
Steamboater's
Handbook, a page from the Metropolitan Catalogue has the following
drawing showing the connections

and this table giving the
specifications
 |
22/06/03 |
Brian asks another question:
How do members feel about boiler storage between steam
ups? Some folk swear by storing dry whilst others recommend wet storage.
The chemical company in Launceston where I have purchased my boiler
treatment [D&M Chemicals] recommend wet storage with adequate chemicals
being added to bring the PH to about 10 to 11 and to scavenge the free
oxygen in the water. They maintain this is the only way to go. Others
say the way is to blow down the boiler whilst it still has a few pounds
[oops sorry kilopascals] on the dial. The latent heat in the boiler
drying out the remaining moisture. I tried this without success as
without removing all the inspection plugs it is impossible to remove all
the condensation. I would love to hear other's opinions. |
Another Brian replies on
21/08/03: I
thought I'd add my bit to the 'to treat or not to treat' question in Q
& A. Like Brian Forster, I tried to empty my boiler after each run,
then tried to get the boiler dry by using latent heat. As the boiler
blowdown opening is about 20mm above the bottom tubeplate (VFT
boiler), this simply did not work. Blowing air through the blowdown
when the boiler was cold made a gurgling noise. Plainly there was
still water there. I then faxed every boiler establishment I could
find in NSW with my problem and asked for their solution. Hydroguard
Services of Unit 2, Gundy St, Gateshead, 2290 (Newcastle) replied
within half an hour! (Other replies took weeks, or not at all, and
none of the others were very helpful.) Their Hydroguard 484 was
delivered within 48 hours, at $30 for 5 litres. They recommend 150ml
per 1000L dosage/ or enough to make the gauge glass tea coloured. I
use the latter dosage, which is considerably more than the former, but
it will still take me quite a few years to use it all up. Being a
total newcomer to steam, I am hesitant to enter this long-running
debate, but have found this treatment easy to use and monitor. I blow
down a gauge glass full every run, usually near the end, then top the
boiler up when cold with the hand feed pump. New treatment is simply
added to the hotwell.
Hoping this is of some help,
Brian Jones
|
13/11/03 |
I have finished an Elliot Bay triple and am in the
process of lagging the engine with Australian Cedar (a timber similar in
appearance to mahogany). I am interested to find out the traditional
finish for timber lagging on a steam engine considering the issues of
heat, oil, water etc. The timber lagging does come into contact with the
cylinder head for about 1/4" at either end of the vertically placed 1
1/2" wide strips. Suggestions so far are shellac, linseed oil and
varnish. I look forward to hearing the views of others
Thanks
Peter Cowie
|
Brian Forster from Tasmania replies:
My little engine is timber lagged
with Tassie Oak which I subsequently stained darker, this I cut into
strips about 15mm by 12mm by about 100mm long. I put insulation
material behind the strips before fixing brass bands to hold it all
together. The trick is to be able to hold the insulation in place then
the strips whilst bolting up the bands. I used masking tape and the
whole lot went together fine. I have finished the timber with marine
varnish and after many steam ups now, it shows no sign of
discoloration, this includes the ends where as you say they do come
into contact with the cylinder head. Likewise I have done the same to
my boiler, insulation followed by timber strips and brass bands. The
timber here has shown some heat marks where it contacts the outlets
but certainly nothing to worry about. It is quite amazing the heat
timber will take, and dont forget after all this is the old fashioned
way of lagging boilers. Hope this helps.
Cheers from Tassie. Brian.
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